
What if your backyard could feed you for decades with way less work than a tomato patch? You can achieve this with fruit trees! I met arborist Allen Taylor at the Northwest Flower and Garden Show earlier this year. He's the founder of Conservation Tree Care, and he shares how to grow fruit trees in your own backyard with confidence and patience. I'm a homeowner now, and I am so excited to finally have fruit trees of my own! Let's dive in!
Growing Joy: The Plant Lover's Guide to Cultivating Happiness (and Plants) by Maria Failla, Illustrated by Samantha Leung
I think people overthink it. Do two plum trees count? Do you need twelve?
Allen says that he doesn’t like rules, and nature doesn’t either. If you have a tree and it makes fruit, you can call it an orchard.
One term worth knowing though is species vs. cultivar. Species is the broad category, like “apple tree.” A cultivar is more like a specific breed, like Honeycrisp vs. Gravenstein apple.
There are really two paths in:
Note: an inherited tree can just be a hands-off “shade tree that happens to produce fruit”.
Most people obsess over pruning, but pollination is what you should be focusing, as mentioned by Allen.
Some trees, like fig, are self-fertile and can produce fruit on their own. But most fruit trees need a nearby tree to fertilize them, or you won't get fruit at all. Even self-fertile trees tend to produce better fruit with a pollinator partner nearby.
But it all depends a lot on where you live. In cities like Seattle, there are so many fruit trees around that pollination usually just happens naturally. Out in rural areas, you may need to plant two compatible trees yourself.
Note: weather matters too. A cold snap during bloom week can keep pollinators away entirely.
Fruit trees are a slow, long-term project, not instant like a tomato plant.
Fruit only grows on wood of a certain age. For trees like apples and plums, that's usually 2- to 4-year-old wood. So even after your tree survives its first few seasons, the specific branches still need time to mature before they can flower and fruit.
A few key things Allen says to get right from the start:
Get a soil test before adding fertilizer. Too much can actually stress out a young tree instead of helping it.
Most fruit trees also want full sun and relatively flat, easy-to-reach ground, since orchards traditionally grow in open, unshaded farmland.
Fruit trees tolerate heavy pruning far better than ornamental trees, sometimes up to half the tree's growth is removed in a season, something you'd never do to a maple or fir.
A few basics to know:
Your best fruit tree pick really depends on where you live! In Seattle, where Allen works, the most common backyard choices are:
He notes Seattle's long growing season, rich soil, and warm dry summers make it especially forgiving for fruit trees, and some clients there even grow olives.
Down here in Florida, my neighbors' yards are full of mango trees, and I've even got a coconut tree in my own backyard.
Note: Allen's best advice is to check with local nurseries or your state's extension office rather than relying on big-box stores, since what grows well varies so much by region.
Fruit trees are a generational investment rather than a quick garden project, so that means you're not planting for this summer. You're planting for years down the road.
Start small and pick the right tree for your zone. I'm genuinely so excited to finally plant fruit trees in my own Florida backyard now that I'm a homeowner!
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